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FAQ

  • Q Control Quality

    A Q: How does your factory control quality?

    A: We provide various certifications and inspection reports, support third-party inspections, and ensure that all our products undergo strict quality checks before shipment.
  • Q Market Competitiveness

    A
    Q: What’s your MOQ for distributors?
     
    A: MOQ starts at 50 units per model,  custom quotes for 500+ units.
  • Q Shipping & Logistics

    A
    Q: What’s your lead time for bulk orders?
     
    A: Standard lead time: By air, the shipping time is about 7 to 10 days by express, such as DHL, FedEx, UPS. By Sea, it is about 25 to 30 days. By railway transportation is about 40 to 50 days. 
    Please tell us your address then we will offer you the best shipping cost. 
  • Q MOQ

    A Q: What is the minimum order quantity for your welding gun products?

    A: Minimum order quantity of our welding torch is 10 pieces.
  • Q Free Sample

    A Q: Can I have a sample for testing?

    A: Yes, we can support samples.
  • Q Customization

    A
    Q: Can you provide OEM branding or custom packaging?
     
    A: Yes, we support customized services. We offer: laser-engraved logos on torch handles, custom color packaging. We can package according to your requirements, and we also have regular neutral packaging or color box packaging. Please provide us with your design drawings, Ai or PDF files, or mail us your samples, and we will provide a quotation based on the drawings and samples. 
     
  • Q Quality & Durability

    A
    Q: How do you ensure consistent quality across production batches?
     
    A: We implement a 5-stage QC process: raw material spectrometry, robotic assembly tolerance checks (±0.05mm), 24-hour thermal stress testing, arc stability validation, and final ISO-compliant packaging audits. We has professional quality inspectors who conduct inspections during the processing and before the shipment of finished products to ensure that the products you receive are fully customized according to your requirements.
  • Q Product Certification & Compliance

    A
    Q: Are your torches certified for international markets (CE, ISO, AWS, etc.)?
     
    A: Yes. Our MIG/TIG/Plasma torches comply with CE, ISO 9001:2015, and AWS standards. Plasma models also meet RoHS directives for hazardous substance restrictions. Certificates are available upon request.
  • Q Why Is Your Plasma Cutter Producing Rough or Dirty Cuts?

    A
    Rough, jagged, or dirty plasma cuts (characterized by excessive slag/dross, a heavy bevel angle, or a turbulent cut edge) are typically caused by incorrect travel speed, contaminated air supply, worn consumables, incorrect torch height, or an improperly installed swirl ring.
     
    Follow this professional troubleshooting guide to eliminate dross and achieve clean, laser-like edges:
     
    Incorrect Travel Speed (High-Speed vs. Low-Speed Dross):  Moving too fast causes the plasma arc to trail behind the torch, leaving a hard, dynamic dross along the bottom edge that is difficult to remove.
     
    Moving too slow allows the arc to widen and look for metal, creating a thick, heavy, and easily removable puddle of dross along the bottom, along with top-edge rounding.
     
    Moisture or Oil Contamination in the Air Lines: Clean air is vital for a stable plasma arc. If your air lines contain moisture or compressor oil, the plasma jet becomes unstable and turbulent. This causes erratic cutting arcs, rapid consumable blackening, and a highly contaminated, rough cut edge. Always use a dedicated multi-stage air filtration or desiccant drying system.
     
    Worn, Pitted, or Out-of-Round Consumables: The nozzle orifice directs and constricts the plasma jet. If the nozzle hole is slightly oval, nicked, or gouged, the plasma stream will exit unevenly. This leads to a severe bevel angle (one side of the cut is straight, the other is slanted) and a rough finish. Inspect and replace the nozzle and electrode as a matched pair.
     
    Incorrect Standoff Distance (Torch Height Control): Holding the torch too high decreases arc density, creating a large bevel angle and top dross. Holding it too close can overheat the nozzle and blow slag back into the torch head. Maintain a consistent torch-to-workpiece standoff of 1/16 to 1/8 inch (1.5 to 3 mm).
     
    Reversed Swirl Ring or Direction of Cut: The swirl ring spins the plasma gas to create a vortex that stabilizes the arc, giving one side of the cut a perfectly square edge and the other a slight bevel. Because the plasma gas spins in a specific direction (usually clockwise), always cut in a direction where the scrap metal is on the left and your finished part is on the right (when moving the torch away from you).
     
     
  • Q Why Is There Excessive Dross After Plasma Cutting?

    A
    Excessive dross (the resolidified molten metal slag that sticks to the bottom or top edges of a cut) occurs when the torch travel speed is incorrect, the amperage is mismatched to the material thickness, the air pressure is too low, or the torch consumables are worn out.
     
    To eliminate dross and achieve clean, scrapable edges, identify whether you are experiencing low-speed or high-speed dross and adjust accordingly:
     
    Low-Speed Dross (Thick, Heavy, Easily Removable Slag): If your travel speed is too slow, the plasma jet over-activates and widens, melting more metal than the air stream can blow away. This excess molten metal accumulates along the bottom edge in heavy, bubbly beads that usually pop off easily with a chipping hammer. Solution: Increase your torch travel speed.
     
    High-Speed Dross (Thin, Tight, Hard-to-Remove Slag): If you move the torch too fast, the plasma arc trails backward at a severe angle instead of penetrating straight down. The arc cannot completely clear the path, leaving a fine, hard, and narrow bead of dross welded tightly onto the bottom edge that requires grinding to remove. Solution: Decrease your travel speed or increase amperage.
     
    Low Shield Air Pressure or Volume: Compressed air acts as the mechanical force that drives molten metal out of the kerf. If your air pressure drops below specifications during a cut, or if your air line is restricted, the plasma jet lacks the kinetic energy to push the slag clear through the bottom. Always check your dynamic air pressure (while air is flowing).
     
    Incorrect Torch Standoff Height: Holding the torch too high above the workpiece reduces the focused energy of the arc, causing a wider kerf and increased dross. Conversely, cutting too close can bounce molten metal back into the nozzle. Maintain a consistent standoff height of 1/16 to 1/8 inch (1.5 to 3 mm) or use a dedicated CNC torch height control (THC).
     
    Worn Nozzle Orifice or Swirl Ring: A damaged, oval, or pitted nozzle orifice distorts the symmetry of the plasma stream. If the air/plasma vortex exits unevenly, it will cleanly blow dross from one side of the cut while leaving heavy slag on the opposite side.
     
  • Q Why does my plasma cutter lose arc during cutting?

    A
    If your plasma cutter fires initially but abruptly loses its cutting arc mid-cut, the issue is typically caused by fluctuating air pressure, a weak or dirty ground connection, worn-out torch consumables, an exceeded machine duty cycle, or moving the torch too slowly.
     
    Follow this professional troubleshooting guide to eliminate arc dropouts and maintain a stable, continuous cut:
     
    Fluctuating or Dropping Air Pressure (The #1 Cause): Plasma cutters require consistent dynamic air pressure. If your air compressor cannot keep up, or if there is a restriction in the line, the air pressure may drop mid-cut. When the pressure falls below the machine's minimum threshold, the internal safety sensor cuts power to the arc. Solution: Monitor your pressure gauge while cutting to ensure it stays within manufacturer specs.
     
    Weak or Corroded Work Ground Clamp: A plasma arc requires a complete, low-resistance electrical circuit to stay transferred to the metal. If your ground clamp is attached to a painted, rusted, greasy, or heavily slag-coated surface, the electrical resistance will spike as you move, causing the machine to drop the arc. Solution: Grind a spot down to bare, shiny metal and clamp directly to the workpiece.
     
    Worn, Pitted, or Loose Consumables: As the electrode and nozzle wear down, the gap between them changes. If the electrode's hafnium insert is deeply pitted (more than 1/32 inch or 1 mm), or if the nozzle orifice is deformed, the plasma vortex becomes unstable and will snap mid-cut. Ensure all torch components are tightly assembled and replaced when worn.
     
    Moving the Torch Too Slowly (Loss of Arc Transfer): A plasma cutter relies on the proximity of bare metal to sustain the cutting arc. If you travel too slowly, the intense heat will blow out a massive gap (kerf) ahead of the torch. With no metal directly beneath the nozzle, the arc has nothing to transfer to and will extinguish.
     
    Exceeding the Machine's Duty Cycle: If you are making long, continuous cuts on thick metal, you may be hitting the machine's thermal limit. When a plasma cutter exceeds its rated duty cycle, the internal thermal overload protection will trip, instantly cutting power to the torch while leaving the cooling fan running.
     
  • Q Why is my plasma torch double arcing?

    A
    Double arcing is a critical torch malfunction that occurs when the cutting arc splits into two distinct paths—one from the electrode to the nozzle, and another from the nozzle to the workpiece. This electrical short-circuit rapidly destroys consumables and is typically caused by severe nozzle contamination, incorrect gas flow, or a failing pilot arc circuit.
     
    Follow this professional troubleshooting guide to diagnose and eliminate double arcing before it damages your torch head:
     
    Heavy Slag or Metal Dust Contamination (The #1 Cause): If you pierce too close to the workpiece, molten metal slag can blow back and bridge the gap between your shield cup and the cutting nozzle. This creates a highly conductive path of metallic debris on the outside of the torch, forcing the electrical current to arc through the nozzle rather than cleanly passing through the orifice.
     
    Insufficient Shield Gas Flow or Pressure: The gas flowing through the swirl ring acts as a vital electrical insulator between the electrode and the nozzle inside the torch. If your air pressure or flow rate (CFM/LPM) drops below specification, the gas barrier weakens. Without this insulation, the arc will snap directly to the nozzle wall on its way to the plate, causing localized melting.
     
    Worn, Out-of-Round, or Overtightened Consumables: If the nozzle orifice is already nicked or worn into an oval shape, the plasma stream loses its narrow constriction and becomes turbulent. This turbulence brings the superheated plasma column into direct physical contact with the interior nozzle walls, initiating a secondary arc. Additionally, overtightening the consumable stack can misalign internal tolerances.
     
    Faulty Pilot Arc Relay or Timing Switch: In a healthy plasma system, the pilot arc loop (electrode-to-nozzle) should instantly shut off the moment the main cutting arc transfers to the workpiece ground. If the machine's internal pilot arc relay sticks open or fails to disengage due to a board malfunction, the machine will continuously feed high power through the nozzle while cutting, resulting in violent double arcing.
     
    Incorrect Standoff Distance (Cutting Too Close): Dragging a non-drag nozzle directly on the metal workpiece forces the nozzle into the electrical path. The voltage will jump from the electrode, through the nozzle body, and into the plate, bypassing the concentrated plasma stream entirely. Maintain a strict 1/16 to 1/8 inch (1.5 to 3mm) standoff.
     
     
  • Q Why Does Your Plasma Torch Overheat?

    A
    A plasma torch overheats when the cooling air flow is insufficient, the machine exceeds its rated duty cycle, consumables are worn or mismatched, the travel speed is too slow, or the post-flow cooling cycle is interrupted.
     
    Overheating can damage the torch head internal insulation and melt consumables. Follow this professional troubleshooting checklist to identify the cause:
     
    Inadequate Air Flow or Low Gas Pressure (The #1 Cause): In air-cooled plasma systems, compressed air does two jobs: it creates the cutting jet and acts as the primary coolant for the torch. If your air pressure or flow volume (CFM/LPM) drops below the manufacturer’s specifications, the torch will rapidly overheat. Check for air line kinks, clogged filters, or an undersized compressor.
     
    Exceeding the Machine’s Duty Cycle: Operating the plasma cutter continuously beyond its rated duty cycle (e.g., a 60% duty cycle means 6 minutes of cutting and 4 minutes of rest) forces the power source and torch to retain excessive heat. This triggers the thermal overload protection or permanently bakes the torch head. Stick to the recommended limits for your material thickness.
     
    Interrupted Post-Flow Cooling: When you release the trigger after a cut, the air continues to blow for 10 to 30 seconds. This post-flow period is critical for cooling down the electrode and torch head. Never turn off the machine or immediately pull the trigger again during the post-flow cycle, as this traps extreme residual heat inside the torch.
     
    Worn-Out or Incorrectly Sized Consumables: A severely eroded electrode or an oversized nozzle orifice alters the arc shape and causes the plasma column to widen or misalign. This causes the superheated plasma jet to reflect heat back into the torch body rather than channeling it straight out through the nozzle.
     
    Excessive Standoff Distance or Slow Travel Speed: Holding the torch too far from the workpiece (high standoff) forces the machine to increase its voltage to maintain the arc, generating massive amounts of ambient heat. Similarly, moving too slowly allows intense thermal energy to build up directly beneath the torch head.
     
  • Q Why Is Your Plasma Cutter Not Cutting Through Metal?

    A
    Insufficient Air Pressure or Wet Compressed Air (Most Critical): Plasma cutters require a steady volume of clean, dry air to create the plasma jet and blow away molten metal. If air pressure drops below the manufacturer's specification under load, the arc cannot penetrate. Additionally, moisture in the air line destabilizes the arc and destroys consumables. Install an inline air dryer or filter.
     
    Worn or Damaged Torch Consumables: A worn-out swirl ring, electrode, or cutting nozzle/tip will distort the plasma arc, causing it to widen or deflect rather than pierce the metal. Inspect your nozzle orifice; if it is oval, out-of-round, or pitted, replace the entire consumable stack.
     
    Mismatched Amperage and Cutting Speed: Ensure your machine's amperage is set correctly for the material thickness you are cutting. If the amperage is correct but you move the torch too fast, the plasma jet cannot burn through in time, leaving excessive "dross" (slag) on the bottom or failing to pierce entirely.
     
    Poor Work Cable Ground Connection: A weak or corroded ground clamp restricts the electrical circuit, severely reducing the power of the cutting arc. Clamp directly to clean, bare metal on the workpiece itself, rather than onto a painted, rusted, or dirty welding table surface.
     
    Incorrect Standoff Distance or Travel Angle: Holding the torch too far from the workpiece (excessive standoff) reduces arc intensity. For hand-cutting, maintain a consistent 1/16 to 1/8 inch (1.5 to 3 mm) distance, or use a dedicated drag shield if your torch supports it. Hold the torch at a 90°angle to the plate for optimal penetration.
     
  • Q Why is my TIG tungsten splitting or cracking?

    A
    Improper Grinding Direction (Most Common): Always grind your tungsten longitudinally (lengthwise, from the body to the tip). Grinding circularly (across the diameter) creates transverse grind marks. The welding current forces its way across these micro-grooves, causing the tip to split, flake, or break off into the weld pool.
     
    Thermal Shock from Cutting: Never use standard pliers or wire cutters to snap a tungsten electrode. Snapping fractures the internal crystalline structure, causing hidden hairline cracks that split open under welding heat. Instead, use a dedicated diamond cutoff wheel to cut your tungsten.
     
    Excessive Amperage or Overheating: Running too much current through a tungsten diameter that is too small causes extreme overheating. This leads to delamination (splitting along the grain boundaries) of the electrode.
     
    Contamination & Poor Gas Coverage: Touching the weld puddle or filler rod contaminates the tip. Additionally, inadequate shielding gas post-flow deprives the hot tungsten of oxygen protection, causing rapid oxidation and cracking as it cools.
     
    Incorrect Tungsten Selection: Using pure tungsten (Green) on an inverter AC machine at high amperages will cause the tip to split or melt destructively. Switch to 2% Thoriated (Red), Ceriated (Grey), or Lanthanated (Gold/Blue) for better thermal stability and current-carrying capacity.
  • Q Why is my TIG torch trigger or switch not working?

    A
    Check the Machine Settings: Ensure your welder is set to "Remote" or "Torch Control" instead of "Foot Pedal." Also, verify if you are in 2T mode (press and hold) or 4T mode (click-on, click-off), as a mismatch can mimic a dead switch.
     
    Inspect the Control Plug (Pins): Unplug the multi-pin connector (e.g., 2-pin, 5-pin, or 7-pin Amphenol plug) from the machine. Check for bent, corroded, or loose pins. Clean them with electrical contact cleaner and ensure a secure fit.
     
    Test for Wire Continuity: TIG torch leads flex constantly, often causing internal wire breakage near the handle or plug. Use a digital multimeter set to continuity: place the probes on the plug pins and press the trigger. If it doesn't beep, the wire or switch is broken.
     
    Inspect the Microswitch: Pop open the torch handle. Check the momentary microswitch for metal dust buildup or physical damage. You can bypass the switch by shorting its contacts with a screwdriver; if the machine fires, the microswitch needs to be replaced.
  • Q Why Is Aluminum TIG Welding Difficult?

    A
    Aluminum TIG welding is difficult because aluminum has a high thermal conductivity, a low melting point, and forms a strong oxide layer that melts at a much higher temperature than the base metal. These characteristics make heat control, arc stability, and weld pool visibility more challenging compared to steel or stainless steel welding.
     
    The main difficulty comes from the aluminum oxide layer, which must be properly cleaned or broken down using AC TIG settings before welding. If not removed, it prevents proper fusion and leads to weak, contaminated welds. In addition, aluminum quickly dissipates heat, requiring higher amperage and precise control to avoid burn-through or inconsistent penetration.
     
    Other common challenges include maintaining a stable AC balance, managing the cleaning action versus penetration, and preventing tungsten contamination due to improper arc control. Poor shielding gas coverage or incorrect torch technique can also easily lead to porosity and oxidized welds.
     
    To improve aluminum TIG welding results, use AC TIG mode with correct balance settings, clean the material thoroughly with a stainless steel brush, maintain a short and stable arc length, and ensure consistent argon shielding gas flow. Proper tungsten selection (such as pure or ceriated/lantanated tungsten for AC use) also helps improve arc stability.
     
    With correct setup and technique, aluminum TIG welding becomes more controlled, producing clean, strong, and visually consistent welds.
  • Q Why Is My TIG Torch Gas Not Flowing Properly?

    A
    TIG torch gas flow problems are usually caused by issues in the shielding gas supply system, such as an empty gas cylinder, incorrect regulator settings, blocked hoses, faulty solenoid valves, or leaks in the gas line. When argon gas does not flow consistently, the weld is exposed to atmospheric contamination, leading to poor arc stability, porosity, and oxidized weld beads.
     
    The most common causes include a closed or low gas cylinder, incorrect flow rate settings on the regulator, damaged or kinked gas hoses, or a malfunctioning gas solenoid inside the TIG welding machine. Blocked or dirty torch components such as the gas lens, diffuser, or collet body can also restrict gas flow. In some cases, loose fittings or internal leaks prevent proper shielding gas delivery to the torch.
     
    To fix TIG torch gas flow issues, first verify that the gas cylinder is open and contains sufficient argon. Check and adjust the regulator to the correct flow rate, inspect hoses for leaks or damage, and ensure all fittings are tightly secured. Clean or replace clogged torch components such as the gas lens and diffuser, and confirm that the solenoid valve activates when the torch trigger or foot pedal is pressed.
     
    Regular inspection of the TIG gas delivery system, including regulator, hoses, solenoid, and torch consumables, helps ensure stable shielding gas coverage, improves weld quality, and prevents common TIG welding defects.
  • Q Why Is My TIG Weld Bead Dirty or Gray?

    A
    A dirty or gray TIG weld bead is typically caused by insufficient shielding gas coverage, contaminated base material, incorrect welding technique, or inadequate post-flow protection. Instead of producing a bright, clean, silver weld, the molten metal becomes exposed to oxygen and nitrogen, leading to oxidation and a dull gray or contaminated appearance.
     
    The most common causes include low or unstable argon gas flow, gas leaks in hoses or fittings, drafts or wind disturbing the shielding gas, excessive arc length, or improper torch angle. Contaminated tungsten or a dirty workpiece with oil, rust, paint, or moisture can also introduce impurities into the weld pool, resulting in discoloration and poor weld quality.
     
    To prevent a dirty or gray TIG weld bead, ensure consistent argon shielding gas flow and proper coverage, check for leaks in the gas system, and protect the weld area from airflow. Thoroughly clean the base metal before welding, maintain a short and stable arc length, and allow sufficient post-flow gas to protect the cooling weld and tungsten electrode.
     
    Regular TIG torch maintenance, correct shielding gas setup, and proper surface preparation are essential for achieving clean, bright, and high-quality TIG welds.
  • Q Why is the TIG weld bead dirty or gray?

    A
    A dirty or gray TIG weld bead is typically caused by insufficient shielding gas coverage, contaminated base material, incorrect welding technique, or inadequate post-flow protection. Instead of producing a bright, clean, silver weld, the molten metal becomes exposed to oxygen and nitrogen, leading to oxidation and a dull gray or contaminated appearance.
     
    The most common causes include low or unstable argon gas flow, gas leaks in hoses or fittings, drafts or wind disturbing the shielding gas, excessive arc length, or improper torch angle. Contaminated tungsten or a dirty workpiece with oil, rust, paint, or moisture can also introduce impurities into the weld pool, resulting in discoloration and poor weld quality.
     
    To prevent a dirty or gray TIG weld bead, ensure consistent argon shielding gas flow and proper coverage, check for leaks in the gas system, and protect the weld area from airflow. Thoroughly clean the base metal before welding, maintain a short and stable arc length, and allow sufficient post-flow gas to protect the cooling weld and tungsten electrode.
     
    Regular TIG torch maintenance, correct shielding gas setup, and proper surface preparation are essential for achieving clean, bright, and high-quality TIG welds.

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Address: D819 Creative Industry Park, 
Changzhou, Jiangsu, China

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