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FAQ

  • Q Why does my MIG gun overheat?

    A
    A MIG gun overheats when it is operated beyond its rated duty cycle or amperage, has loose consumable connections, or has a damaged/undersized cable. High resistance from a hand-tightened contact tip also generates heat. Use a gun rated for your amperage, tighten consumables properly, stay within the duty cycle, and inspect the cable for damage.
     

  • Q When should I replace my MIG gun liner?

    A
    Replace the liner when wire feeding becomes rough despite correct tension, when you see wire shavings or debris, or when switching to a different wire size or type. A dirty or worn liner is a leading cause of feeding problems and birdnesting. Blow it out regularly with clean compressed air and replace it before it causes downtime.

  • Q Are TIG torch consumables interchangeable between brands?

    A
    TIG consumables (collets, collet bodies, gas cups, back caps) are sized to specific torch series (e.g., 9, 17, 18, 20, 26) rather than being universally interchangeable. Parts within the same series are often compatible, but threading and geometry vary across torch models. Always match consumables to your torch series, or use verified compatible equivalents.
     

  • Q How often should I replace TIG torch consumables?

    A
    Replace TIG consumables based on condition: re-grind or replace the tungsten when contaminated or balled, replace the gas cup when cracked or chipped, and replace the collet and collet body when they no longer grip the tungsten firmly or show heat damage. Worn consumables cause poor gas coverage, overheating, and unstable arcs, so inspect them regularly.

  • Q Why is my TIG torch leaking gas?

    A
    A TIG torch leaks gas when the O-rings, gas cap, collet body, or hose connections are worn, cracked, or loose. Air intrusion then contaminates the weld. Inspect and replace damaged O-rings and cracked gas caps, hand-tighten the back cap and collet body firmly, and check all hose fittings to restore a leak-free gas seal.
     

  • Q Why does my TIG arc wander or feel unstable?

    A
    An unstable or wandering TIG arc is usually caused by a contaminated or improperly ground tungsten, wrong tungsten size, inadequate gas coverage, or incorrect arc length. Re-grind the tungsten lengthwise on a clean wheel, match the tungsten size to your amperage, verify gas flow, and hold a short, consistent arc length for a focused, stable arc.
     

  • Q Which TIG tungsten color (type) should I choose?

    A
    Choose tungsten by application: 2% lanthanated (blue) is a versatile all-around choice for AC and DC on most metals; 2% thoriated (red) is common for DC steel work; 2% ceriated (gray) suits low-amperage and thin material. Many welders now prefer lanthanated or ceriated as non-radioactive alternatives to thoriated tungsten.
     

  • Q Why is my TIG weld turning black or discolored?

    A
    A black or heavily discolored TIG weld means poor gas shielding — caused by low gas flow, a gas leak, too long an arc, insufficient post-flow, or drafts. Check for leaks at the torch connections, increase shielding-gas flow and post-flow, shorten the arc length, and shield the weld zone from wind for a clean, bright weld.
     

  • Q How long should a MIG welding gun last?

    A
    A quality MIG gun lasts for years with proper care, but its life depends on amperage, duty cycle, and maintenance. The gun body outlasts consumables, which wear continuously. Regularly replace contact tips, clean nozzles and liners, tighten connections, and keep the cable straight to maximize the gun's service life and avoid premature failure.

  • Q Are MIG gun consumables interchangeable between brands?

    A
    MIG gun consumables (contact tips, nozzles, diffusers, liners) are generally not interchangeable across brands — they are engineered to each gun's threading, geometry, and amperage. Using mismatched parts causes poor current transfer, feeding problems, and overheating. Always match consumables to your specific gun model, or use verified compatible equivalents.

  • Q Why is my MIG weld porous (full of holes)?

    A
    Porosity in MIG welding is caused by insufficient or contaminated shielding gas, a dirty or rusty base metal, too long a stickout, or drafts blowing gas away. Clean the base metal to bare bright steel, verify gas type and flow, keep stickout short and consistent, and shield the weld zone from wind for sound, porosity-free welds.

  • Q What is the correct shielding gas flow rate for MIG welding?

    A
    Most MIG welding runs well at 20–25 CFH (cubic feet per hour) of shielding gas in normal indoor conditions. Too low causes porosity; too high creates turbulence that pulls in air and also causes porosity. Increase flow slightly for drafty environments, but always check your machine and wire manufacturer's recommendation.
     

  • Q Why is my plasma cut edge angled (beveled) instead of square?

    A
    A beveled or angled plasma cut edge is usually caused by worn consumables, incorrect torch-to-work standoff, wrong cutting speed, or cutting in the wrong direction relative to the swirl. Replace worn nozzles/electrodes, set the correct cut height, and remember that with a standard clockwise gas swirl, the right side of the cut (in the direction of travel) is the square side.
     

  • Q How do I extend the life of my plasma consumables?

    A
    To maximize consumable life: use the correct pierce height and pierce delay, cut at the rated amperage, keep gas clean and dry, minimize unnecessary starts, and maintain proper standoff. Piercing too close or too long is the single biggest life-killer. Good gas quality and correct technique can extend consumable life several times over.

  • Q Can a plasma torch be used for gouging?

    A
    Yes — a plasma torch can gouge metal with the correct gouging consumables and technique. Gouging removes metal to remove welds, defects, or bevel joints. It uses a dedicated gouging nozzle and a shallower torch angle (about 40–45°) than cutting. Not every torch supports gouging, so confirm your system offers gouging consumables before starting.

  • Q Why won't my plasma torch fire or stay lit?

    A
    A plasma torch that won't fire or keeps cutting out usually has a poor work-clamp ground connection, low air pressure, worn consumables, or a loose torch lead/connection. Start by checking that the work clamp is on clean bare metal, the air pressure is in range, and the consumables and torch connections are tight and properly assembled.

  • Q What air pressure and amperage do I need for plasma cutting?

    A
    Most hand-held air plasma systems run best at 70–80 PSI (4.8–5.5 bar), with amperage matched to thickness. As a general starting guide: thin sheet ~20–35 A, medium plate ~40–60 A, thicker plate 80 A and up. Always follow your machine's cut chart — exact PSI and amps depend on torch model, consumable rating, and material.

  • Q Why does my plasma torch keep failing prematurely?

    A
    Premature plasma torch failure is most often caused by running worn-out consumables, contaminated or wet plasma gas, incorrect consumable stack-up, or operating beyond the duty cycle. Severely worn parts let the arc damage the torch body. Keep gas clean and dry, replace consumables on time, assemble the correct stack, and stay within the rated duty cycle to protect the torch.

  • Q Are plasma torch consumables interchangeable between brands?

    A
    Plasma consumables are generally not cross-brand interchangeable — electrodes, nozzles, swirl rings, and shields are engineered to each torch's gas flow and amperage. Using mismatched or non-OEM consumables can cause poor cut quality, short life, and torch damage. Always match consumables to your specific torch model and amperage rating, or use verified compatible equivalents.
     

  • Q Why Is Your Plasma Torch Not Striking an Arc?

    A
    If your plasma torch fails to strike an arc (or if the air flows but no spark or flame is produced), the issue is usually caused by stuck torch consumables, an open safety interlock circuit, a faulty ground clamp, insufficient air pressure, or a failing start mechanism (high-frequency or blowback).
     
    Follow this professional troubleshooting guide to find and resolve the issue:
     
    Stuck Consumables in Blowback Torches (Most Common): Modern plasma cutters use a "blowback" start mechanism where air pressure physically moves the electrode away from the nozzle inside the torch to create the pilot arc. If the electrode or swirl ring is stuck due to dirt, slag, or heat deformation, the parts cannot separate, and the arc will not strike. Disassemble the torch and verify the electrode springs back smoothly when pressed.
     
    Triggered Safety Interlock Switches: Most plasma torches feature a built-in safety sensor (a microswitch or contact pins) that detects whether the shield cup is fully tightened. If the cup is loose, missing, or the safety pins are bent, the machine will disable the arc completely to protect the operator. Ensure the shield cup is snugly hand-tightened.
     
    Incorrect or Fluctuating Air Pressure: Plasma cutters are highly sensitive to air pressure. If the inlet air pressure is too low, the blowback mechanism won't activate. If it is too high, it can blow out the pilot arc before it stabilizes. Check your machine's manual and adjust your air regulator to the exact PSI/bar specification while air is flowing (under dynamic load).
     
    Poor Work Ground Clamp Connection: A plasma cutter cannot initiate or sustain a cutting arc without a complete electrical circuit. A clamp attached to painted, rusted, anodized, or heavily greasy metal will prevent the arc from transferring. Always grind a clean spot on your workpiece and attach the ground clamp directly to bare metal.
     
    Worn-Out or Contaminated Consumables: A heavily pitted electrode, an oval-shaped nozzle orifice, or a cracked swirl ring will disrupt the electrical path required to spark the pilot arc. Inspect your consumable stack and replace any parts showing black carbon tracking or physical wear.
     
     

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